Upstate New York (cow and casino Country) Third Gen Camaros,Firebirds and 1st Gen Mustang 1966 are in the stable now. I am always looking for new input and will share any that I can.
1987 IROC z ground up restoration, with hidden mods, just to make the car a riot to drive and take thru it's paces.
1982 Firebird Coupe, build in process much more radical than the IROC
1966 Red Mustang in progress 200ci turbo in line 6 ( my wife's ride )
just pulled from a 3rd gen Camaro road race car with all the goodies hyd. clutch throw out. BMR steel scatter proof or scatter resistant bell housing
multi disk clutch.
Engine is a Hendricks SBC 400 twin turbo, ram fuel injected
researching who built the tranny previous owner mentioned it was a top of the line setup many dollars set up.???
I am in the research stage, the car has been added to the stable.
With the unfortunate events that occurred with Big Chief (on Street Outlaws), I have been thinking about how we mount the Seats in our Cars-
Specifically, I am wondering about how I have mounted my Seat (Glide Engineering Bench/Bucket)-I have just drilled and bolted it to the Floor (with SAE Washers), and now believe this to not be safe-
Seems like a simple question, but should a guy mount this in bolted, double shear (meaning, plates that have 4 Bolts to mount the Plate to the Floor for each Mount, with a center bolt for the Seat itself) ? Or, is there a better way?
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Would like to install 255/30/20 on rear of my Street Beast that is nearly finished. I need the tire to fit inside the fender well and there is room for that but how much backspace or offset do I need on the wheels? The best I have been able to get is a 4 inch backspace which gets it about 1 inch outside of the wheel well. I want it inside.
Hello folks , my first post to this area and it seems to be the best place to ask , Why has Robo racing engines changed his name to enginesunlimited ? I had posted a thread under " Uncalled for " about Robo racing engines last summer and the name he was under at that time was Super strokers then it changed to robo racing, robo gear now it seems to be enginesunlimited . This has all been in less then a years time. I have sense filed a claim with the FBI internet crimes and also with my local law office under internet crimes. I'm going to assume I will have to contact the law offices involved and let them know and my thought are you can paint tiger stripes on a mule but ...it's still a mule. I have had numerous private messages sent to me in regards to Robo racing / enginesunlimited asking if I would recommend him and my answer is still " HELL NO " also messages on issues as I did with the Robo motor / enginesunlimited.....
I just got a SBC block for a rebuild that I am doing. Its bored and honed. My problem is I cant identify specifically what car it came from. the casting number is 14093638 so I know its a 1987 to 1995. The engine Id/suffix is V0702FPR.
I cant find that suffix code in any data base on line.
Any help identifying the block would be appreciated.
Gonna start building my 406 soon and wanted thoughts on the combination I had in mind. Won't necessarily be daily but will get heavy street use. Also any hp/tq estimates? I'm thinking 500/525 rather conservatively.
Factory gm high nickel 400
Scat forged crank 3.750
Scat forged 6" rods h beam
Je 147549 forged pistons 4.155 -16cc (9.7:1 w 70cc)
Profiler 176 heads (210cc, 70cc, 2.08/1.6) valve spring suggestions? 1.525 dual?
Comp hyraulic roller big mutha thumpr .519/.531 243/257 107
Thinking 1.6 rockers to bring lift around .560
Super victor or eddy rpm performer intake?
770-800 cfm carb
Either a beefy 4l80e or t56 tranny
Decently streetable? Any input or suggestions appreciated
I have accesory holes in the Covers but I dont thin a breather or PCV will fit?
Girdle is in the way? any suggestions to get a breather and PCV in the Valve cover?
I got maybe .500 at best till I hit the Girdle.
Friend of mine has an 05 2500 4x4 with the Duramax and Allison trans.
The truck decided to be a bit stupid recently.
If cruising along in high gear and the throttle is relaxed, the truck just kind of goes into neutral.
Pulling off to the side of the road and going thru the gears does nothing.
Turning the truck off and restarting----then the truck works like it should--for a couple of miles and then repeat.
Fluid and both filters have been changed in hopes that something would free up--no cigar----still does it.
Gear selector module (NSS) has been replaced.
Trans has 7 solenoids that I can see on and around the valve body.
At the rear of the pan--there are 6
From driver side to passenger side
small-small-small-large-large-----and a small one right over the first large one.
At the front driver side corner there is another one.
Have no idea what these things do, but I am suspecting that one or more may have some attitude issues (sticking)
Anyone know what these things do exactly---like which is 1-2 2-3 etc??
Or does anyone have an idea what is going on with the trans.
Be nice to get his hunting truck going again---especially since his backup truck gave up recently.
We got this BMW M3 in with the front out of alignment. It had about 3 degrees to little caster on the right front. I think we may have found the problem. :drunk:
I just got to work tonight and noticed the 305 in my 86 trans am is tapping. The car burns a little bit of antifreeze and oil, but I've always taken care to keep the fluids at ok levels. The oil is about a half quart low right now.
The tap occurs more frequently when the car is above 1000 rpms, so I'm assuming its in the rotating assembly? Is this a fair assumption?
Is there anything I can do to ease the car's pain until I can afford to get my new motor built? (take a look at my modern 302 build post for more about that). The tap just appeared recently, possibly tonight even, so could the problem be the oil? (I'll make sure it's still only a quart low in a few minutes). I can't afford any high dollar fixes right now, what with the holidays right around the corner.
If you guys do suspect the low oil is causing it, would mixing 10w30 with 15w40 hurt the motor? That's all I have access to here at work and would hate to drive it the 5 miles or so ( with a hill) home like this.
check it out. I did all the rust work, changed the quarter, gaps, bodywork, prime n block, and cut and rubbed it. They did an amazing job next door on the chassis and interior. Thought I'd share this. I need to go get a copy of Hot Rod Magazine now.
I moved away from home and sold my last minitruck (1985 Toyota Single Cab Japanese bed) for way too little and have missed building a mini ever since. I had fun with that truck but I had more headaches than good times. I moved back to my hometown a while ago and piecing my life back together over the last couple years in hopes to get to a point I can start another build.
This summer was that time, and is still that time. I picked up my 1985 Jimmy in July with the intentions of bagging it and riding around all ugly like for a while with a bodydrop to come in the future months.
That didn't happen.
At all...
So we dug into bagging the truck and continued on. We were going to set it up for 20's, then a 20/22 combo, then **** it....22s all around it is. While we got into bagging it and realizing just how much floor has to come out, we decided to bodydrop the truck. I mean...it's like 3 feet of cutting more.
So on with the bodydrop.
Snowball, meet steep hill.
We figured we could bodydrop it with the motor in, and while that was our intentions and it very well could have been done we already had the core support out, the floor cut out, a motor hoist on hand...let's just pull the 2.8/Auto combo and wiring in favor of a 305/4L60E combo with a fresh harness to match.
So the truck is now a rolling shell with no motor, no harness, no fuel tank, no anything. If a snowball were in truck form...this is it along with a few others following behind it haha.
I'll detail a few things in the photos below. A few things are semi-temporary but we have reasons for what we have done thus far.
got me scratching my head over here. This job(69 Camaro) has been put on hold due to a tiny QTR we got. It's much different than the other OER QTRs we got and the finish seems to be thicker than all the rest of The OER parts. I doubt this is Ecoat. Bodylines not as sharp and generally a smaller QTR. The bottom flange to the drop off is totally different than the other one we got. Then there's the box. Check this out. The tape tells me it was deceptively done at OER manufacture. All the other boxes are black and yellow. Boss is gonna have a few words with the dealer. you figure when a guy buys over $1500 in parts that they wouldn't decide to give the funky box to that customer. Geezalousia.
