so i need some much need advice on a camshaft for my truck. 1976 half ton 4x4 3.73 gears with a 72 454 big block with 049 heads and a q-jet. it is bone stock right now,other than header and 2 1/2 exhaust. it runs strong for what it is, but human nature kicking in im looking for alittle extra more. been looking at cams for it but im not for sure what one. would like to go roller (if funds allow it) and like to stay small enough for the stock converter and doesnt kill low end torque which this truck needs. and for the intake, would like to stay dual plane but still i have no idea what is a good intake for a bbc. this is my first one so trying to learn from being around small blocks my whole life. and advice is appricated. thanks in advance
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454 cam/intake swap
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T-400 no 2nd or 3rd gear
Hey guys. I'm looking at buying a car and when going for a test drive it wouldn't go out of first gear. The car has been in storage for a year or two. Runs real nice in 1st and reverse. I could hear a sucking sound in the engine bay when selecting 2nd gear. Would this indicate something wrong with the vacuum modulator or hose?
The car has been offered slightly cheaper to me. If it's likely to be a cheap fix I'll buy it. Otherwise I'm not sure it's worth it.
Any thoughts?
The car has been offered slightly cheaper to me. If it's likely to be a cheap fix I'll buy it. Otherwise I'm not sure it's worth it.
Any thoughts?
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92 f-150
I finally got something worth posting to the forum. Just bought this '92 Supercab, shortbed F-150. I haven't really done anything to it yet. There are a few minor repairs that have to be made before I begin any modifications. But I do have some amusing plans. Right now, I'm just happy to be back in a pickup.
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2 row vs 3 row radiator
ive decided to go with a champion aluminum radiator now my question is will a 2 row be better then the 3 row ? the 2 row has 3/4 tubes 2 of them and it say its for 400 to 600 hp and the 3 row has has 5/8 tubes 3 of them and it says 600 to 800 hp. im running a stock 350 with approximately 260 to 300 hp. any advice here?
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power rack and pinion to manual
My set up is: 56 ford panel truck with M II suspension. (460 with aluminum heads/intake probably same wt as iron cleveland?). I have a 1990 mustang power rack and a 1978 f150 ford pump, so its not the GM pump. I've driven it for over 14k miles, so it's not a matter of getting used to it. Problem: it has always felt twitchy or too sensitive at speed. 15 years ago, it had the original suspension and steering with an iron headed Ford 428. Wouldn't a manual rack be similar to original suspension as far as effort to steer? I've decided not to spend a couple hundred hundred dollars on adjustable valve plus hoses.
The big question is how many of you have used a manual rack in a heavy vehicle or better yet, switched from power to manual and LIKED it? Btw, it's not a daily driver, I never parallel park, and it will never autocross..lol.
Thanks for reading the long post,
James
The big question is how many of you have used a manual rack in a heavy vehicle or better yet, switched from power to manual and LIKED it? Btw, it's not a daily driver, I never parallel park, and it will never autocross..lol.
Thanks for reading the long post,
James
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SBC 327ci base 210 hp 1969 Camaro
I have a 327ci Camaro engine 210hp base from 1969, I had professionally rebuilt and I am wondering if I have the correct harmonic balancer on it. I have a noticeable vibration at lower rpm. Not terrible, but there.
I purchase a new balancer that was supposed to be the correct one for my engine but now I'm not sure it is. There was not one one it when I bought the block, to compare to.
The new one I bought is a 6-3/4 X 1-1/4 thick one. I am wondering if mine would have been the 8" one that was 1-1/2" thick?
To add, I had the rebuilder install a mild cam and I added a 4 bbl manifold and carb. The flywheel is a 10.5.
Any help would be appreciated.
Bob
I purchase a new balancer that was supposed to be the correct one for my engine but now I'm not sure it is. There was not one one it when I bought the block, to compare to.
The new one I bought is a 6-3/4 X 1-1/4 thick one. I am wondering if mine would have been the 8" one that was 1-1/2" thick?
To add, I had the rebuilder install a mild cam and I added a 4 bbl manifold and carb. The flywheel is a 10.5.
Any help would be appreciated.
Bob
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Lowering a 74 F100
We lowered a 74 F100 with 2 1/2" drop spindles front and flipped the rear axle and 1" blocks rear. What is the best way to determine shock length? Broke the two shocks on the truck. Thanks.
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Vortec/ramjet ?
Hi guys. Been awhile since I posted. Heres my dilemma. A friend of mine overrevved and overheated his Ramjet 350. Its in an airboat. I tore it down and noticed its very close to a stock vortec. I have 2 vortecs apart in my shop and have been comparing those with the Ramjet. From what Im seeing I should be able to order a vortec longblock from GM , put the ramjet cam in, use the new lifters , put the 1.6 GM roller rockers on , upgrade the springs (maybe behives) , and reinstall the ramjet fuel injection. Id like to go this way instead of rebuilding to avoid any hassles with overboring and compression ratio differences. Oh and I was also wondering if GM put different valve springs on the ramjet since the lift is somewhat high at .460/.481 ? Thanks in advance.
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Help ID my sbc engine
Hi.
Trying to find out info on the engine in the car I bought a few months back. I have tried doing searches on the internet but cant find anything except it is a 1977-79 350. Any help would be appreciated.
Engine info:
Engine cast ID (Driver side rear) GM 14016379
Engine Code Stamping (Pass side front) VA214832
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Correct a Cap
I am trying to clean up the appearance of my SB in a 65 Corvette. I have a MSD 8572 tach drive distributor. It uses a stock points style cap. I would like to use one of those caps that organize the plug wires by bank nor firing order. Anyone know of one that will fit? The MSD-8017 cap says it's for a "vortec distributor". What does that mean?
Thanks
Tom
Thanks
Tom
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8.2 Carrier interchange?
I just got a hold of a rear from a 67 Camaro, which pretty rusty inside (surface rust that pretty well wiped off). There is quite a bit of rust on the carrier.......bearings were not seized, but it took quite a bit to rotate it to remove the pin so I could get the axles out.
I have an 8.2 carrier that came out of a 66 Chevy II, and was wondering if it can go into the 67 Camaro case? The spline count is the same, as I tried an axle shaft into the Chevy II carrier. I cannot find a number on the 67 Camaro carrier, but the Chevy II is 3878439.
I was also wondering.....if the carrier can be used, what is the limitation is for gears?
Thank you in advance,
Paul
I have an 8.2 carrier that came out of a 66 Chevy II, and was wondering if it can go into the 67 Camaro case? The spline count is the same, as I tried an axle shaft into the Chevy II carrier. I cannot find a number on the 67 Camaro carrier, but the Chevy II is 3878439.
I was also wondering.....if the carrier can be used, what is the limitation is for gears?
Thank you in advance,
Paul
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new battery time DD
My DD is a 2005 Jeep Liberty. . I sense the engine is taking a smidgen longer to fire up. Usually it hardly cranks at all. 4 yo battery . Legend from NAPA. original battery replaced @ 7yo. Good batt.
Voltage readings are +12.8 cold morning before start, which indicate a good battery. I know a load test would tell me more but for the cost of a new battery ($130), with the cold weater coming I'm thinking it's time to put a new one in. Of course it could be something else slowing down the start. But what would that be. Ideas, thought welcome, thanks , Bob.
Voltage readings are +12.8 cold morning before start, which indicate a good battery. I know a load test would tell me more but for the cost of a new battery ($130), with the cold weater coming I'm thinking it's time to put a new one in. Of course it could be something else slowing down the start. But what would that be. Ideas, thought welcome, thanks , Bob.
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transfer case on 2wd T-350
I'm going to be converting my 78 GMC C15 to 4x4. I know a frame swap would be easier but I have my reasons. Now the real question: I noticed that the tailshaft on my TH350 is held on with a few bolts. Will this unbolt to allow a transfer case to be bolted on? Also will I need to drill any holes in the frame to allow the 4x4 suspension?
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Anyone had trouble with Hurst line lock?
Finally got one installed, leaks like a sieve.
The plug on the bottom, looks like there's a spring loaded check behind it. The o-ring looks good. Summit is replacing it, but I think they only do that once.
Since this is a braking system, you'd think hurst would test it before it leaves the building.
The plug on the bottom, looks like there's a spring loaded check behind it. The o-ring looks good. Summit is replacing it, but I think they only do that once.
Since this is a braking system, you'd think hurst would test it before it leaves the building.
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Pontiac 462 stroker head and cam advice
I have a 68 Bonneville with a 400 block and th400 trans. Ive decided to turn it into a 462 stoker and would like some advice on a good set of heads and a cam to run with it. She's not going to be a track car or a daily driver. I definitely want it street able with not problems in stop and go traffic but able to tear it up on the back roads. Thanks
Dave
Dave
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mufflers
Hi I have a 94 mustang 5.0 w/factory headers and 2 1/2 exhaust pipes and no cat. conv. I want the best sounding turbo mufflers on the market today--any ideas????
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Chevy 355
Last year I pulled motor out of my 73 Chevy c10 due to burning oil didn't know anything about it but after tear down found cylinder had ring wear and 3 out of 8 pistons wear installed wrong which in the end made crank shaft have some really bad markings
Anyways I decided to do a complete rebuild eagle crank eagle rods flat top pistons all internally balanced with comp cam hydraulic roller with Howard roller lifters bow-tie heads with 2.02 valves crowler roller rockers 1.5 and 1.6 edelbrock air gap intake quick fuel 680 carb new msd dizzy carter mechanical fuel pump with all an fittings to carb
The problem I'm having is it runs great in the shop good throttle response but once I put in drive it falls on its face backfires out of exhaust and if you put your foot on then it backfires out of carb I'm pretty sure the timing is correct 12 initial timing and 35 advanced all vaccum caped off
Any help would be appreciated I have a couple ideas what it might be but want some other input
Anyways I decided to do a complete rebuild eagle crank eagle rods flat top pistons all internally balanced with comp cam hydraulic roller with Howard roller lifters bow-tie heads with 2.02 valves crowler roller rockers 1.5 and 1.6 edelbrock air gap intake quick fuel 680 carb new msd dizzy carter mechanical fuel pump with all an fittings to carb
The problem I'm having is it runs great in the shop good throttle response but once I put in drive it falls on its face backfires out of exhaust and if you put your foot on then it backfires out of carb I'm pretty sure the timing is correct 12 initial timing and 35 advanced all vaccum caped off
Any help would be appreciated I have a couple ideas what it might be but want some other input
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Cordless drill battery's ?
I have 2 cordless drills I use a lot, Sears 18v, has all the best features on it, clutch, veri speed, hammer or reg. & a De Walt 12v. I've stopped leaving the battery plugged into them an started putting the battery back into the charger as soon as I'm done with it. The battery's may stay in the charger for a week or so, is this right thing to do? These are not lithium battery which I understand is the thing to do for lithium. These battery's loose there charge after 3 days if left in the drill. .
Bought me a Black&Decker weed whacker, came with 2 - 20v lithium batterys. I'm thinking about buying a B&D 20v lith. drill, this would give me 3 lith. battery & 2 chargers. Then I wouldn't be left with 2 half dead cordless drills.
My last resort drill is a B&D 1/2 drill cored & a el cheapo drill press. I'll also add that the Drill Dr. I have has saved my ars many times.
Anyhow does it do more harm to leave a reg. battery in the charger or letting them dis charge.
Bought me a Black&Decker weed whacker, came with 2 - 20v lithium batterys. I'm thinking about buying a B&D 20v lith. drill, this would give me 3 lith. battery & 2 chargers. Then I wouldn't be left with 2 half dead cordless drills.
My last resort drill is a B&D 1/2 drill cored & a el cheapo drill press. I'll also add that the Drill Dr. I have has saved my ars many times.
Anyhow does it do more harm to leave a reg. battery in the charger or letting them dis charge.
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crown vic sway bar
I'm installing a crown vic suspension and I need the measurement from the center of the axil to the center of the sway bar . Can someone help?
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Rocker geometry and guide plates
My engine build is going slow but steady.
A few weeks ago I checked my push rods length and got a pretty centered line across my valves, today I wanted to bolt the rocker bolts and guide plates.
I could not get the rockers to center above the valves, they are centered if you look from left to right but are not centered if you look from front to back.
I've attached a couple of pictures of the no.1 cylinder valves and another picture that shows that the guide plate is pushed all the way to the right (back of the engine).
Push rod is touching the head but still turns freely by hand.
Is everything OK ?
Can I build the engine this way or do I have any wrong parts?
Block is stock sbc 350 bored +30
Heads are new DART SHP-180
Rockers are Summit SUM-141506 stamped steel roller tip
Guide plates are Dart's
A few weeks ago I checked my push rods length and got a pretty centered line across my valves, today I wanted to bolt the rocker bolts and guide plates.
I could not get the rockers to center above the valves, they are centered if you look from left to right but are not centered if you look from front to back.
I've attached a couple of pictures of the no.1 cylinder valves and another picture that shows that the guide plate is pushed all the way to the right (back of the engine).
Push rod is touching the head but still turns freely by hand.
Is everything OK ?
Can I build the engine this way or do I have any wrong parts?
Block is stock sbc 350 bored +30
Heads are new DART SHP-180
Rockers are Summit SUM-141506 stamped steel roller tip
Guide plates are Dart's
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